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Saturday, 16 April 2011

Spain – 13th April


Spain – 13th April I’ve been in Siurana for 5 days now. Climbed 1 5+ 2 6a+’s and a 7a+ on my first atempt. First route I fell off outdoors was a 7b+, fell once at the start of the crux and then again just at the end. Unfortunately the way I fell the second time damage my ankle by falling straight in and causing my toe to almost touch my shin, which wasn’t too fun. I had to hop all the way back to the road over rocks and through thin paths that felt harder than the climb. That put me out for 2 days. The first day back I tried a 6c+ which was mental and basically a v7 boulder problem from my point of view, it also didn’t help that I was terrified of falling from the injury but also because it wasn’t that long a climb. Then my coach Neil McGeachy decided to put me on a 8b+ top rope at about 8:00 at night (basically during sunset). I managed quite well on it after falling off a 6c+. Managed the first technical bit and then fell off at one of the hardest moves on the climb. After a lot of bumping up the rope and swinging by 2 fingers from a quick draw I pulled back on and jumped to a decent jug to move on to the second hardest move on the route. I couldn’t quite make that insane move and didn’t want to take up anymore of Calum’s time by forcing him to belay me, so I just pulled past it and onto the juggy section. This was my favourite part of the route. It was big moves and jugs all the way. Pulling up past this bit was amazing. But unfortunately all good things come to an end; I reached the crux at the end of the jugs and fell off jumping for a small crimp which maybe wasn’t the best idea. By this time it was seconds away from darkness so Calum let me down by having the end of the rope chucked at my head, wasn’t to enjoyable. Over all good trip so far. Psyched for some more hard core 8’s.

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